During the pandemic, I found myself experimenting with baking, coinciding with my 5-year-old twins developing a newfound love for pancakes. I decided to try making pancakes from scratch, despite my trepidation about baking. Raised by my grandparents, I never witnessed the use of measuring cups in their kitchen, which made me anxious about potentially ruining my first attempt. My daughter wasted no time sharing her thoughts after I flipped my initial batch: “Mommy, these are burnt. They aren’t like the ones from Trader Joe’s.”
For months, pancakes became the staple breakfast for my twin girls. To mitigate the inevitable cavities from their heavy syrup consumption, I attempted to replace their Aunt Jemima syrup with organic agave syrup. The response was less than favorable! We now keep a bottle of Aunt Jemima in plain sight in our fridge. For my daughters, it’s all about taste and the comfort of familiarity. However, soon, the beloved bottle of syrup will undergo a transformation.
The narrative surrounding Aunt Jemima, the woman featured on the syrup bottle, has always remained somewhat enigmatic. Contrary to popular belief, her story doesn’t revolve around a loving Black grandmother making syrup for her grandchildren. This misconception, shared with me by my partner from South Asia, was something I had never considered.
Growing up, a bottle of Aunt Jemima syrup was always present in our fridge. Occasionally, I would add a splash to my warm Cream of Wheat before devouring it. Yet, discussions about who Aunt Jemima represented never occurred between my Black southern grandparents and me. Perhaps they were unaware, or maybe they, like me, never thought it was a narrative worth uncovering. Or perhaps they, like my wife, mistakenly interpreted Aunt Jemima’s cheerful visage as that of a joyful woman eager to whip up pancakes for her grandchildren, creating cherished memories.
Quaker Oats, the brand behind the syrup, has altered its branding and label over the years. Following the Black Lives Matter movement protests, Quaker Oats issued a statement, saying, “As we strive for progress in racial equality through various initiatives, we must also critically evaluate our brand portfolio to ensure it aligns with our values and meets our consumers’ expectations.”
While I can’t speak for all consumers, I certainly hold high hopes for the $400 million Quaker Oats has committed to supporting the Black community. In late 2020, they announced a pledge of $1 million to uplift Black women and girls, alongside another $400 million to boost Black communities and businesses, enhancing Black representation at PepsiCo (which acquired Quaker Oats for $13.8 billion in 2001). The decision to retire the Aunt Jemima brand, after 131 years, in favor of “Pearl Milling Company” was made in the summer of 2020.
This financial commitment, while a step in the right direction, only scratches the surface of the more profound historical and societal issues at play. We need to delve deeper into Aunt Jemima’s legacy and recognize how Black women have significantly contributed to this country’s progress. So, who exactly was Aunt Jemima?
The original face of the brand, a smiling Black woman in a headwrap, was Nancy Green, born a slave in Kentucky in 1834. She eventually moved to Chicago to work as a cook and caretaker for a wealthy white family. Stories of her remarkable pancakes, told by the Walker children, caught the attention of the Aunt Jemima Manufacturing Company, which was in search of the ideal “mammy” stereotype to represent their brand. In 1893, she became the face of Aunt Jemima, showcasing the brand at the World’s Fair. Following this, she signed a lifetime contract that perpetuated the stereotype of Black women as caretakers, typically in the kitchens of white families. Nancy Green leveraged her newfound financial status to support causes close to her heart, including anti-poverty initiatives and her Baptist church. After her unfortunate passing in 1923, at the age of 89, Lillian Richard from Hawkins, Texas, took over as the brand’s face until 1940. In total, ten other Black women have represented a brand created by two white men in the late 19th century.
I hope that a portion of Quaker Oats’ $400 million contributes to honoring the legacy and sacrifices made by these twelve brand ambassadors throughout Aunt Jemima’s history. Quaker Oats has the opportunity to establish museums and create educational materials that ensure the story of Aunt Jemima and her impact on America remains alive and well.
However, this is merely the beginning. Financial contributions alone won’t dismantle the longstanding belief that Black people are inferior. The core issue lies in the name “Aunt Jemima” and the racist legacy it embodies. The company must articulate a clear plan for genuine rebranding. It’s not solely about aiding the Black community or making reparations; it’s about involving diverse voices in this dialogue, fostering education, and challenging racist ideals. Let’s initiate this process, Quaker Oats. And while you’re at it, ensure Black voices are represented in the boardroom and that their insights are genuinely valued.
At the very least, we now understand the true story behind Aunt Jemima, which underscores the need for a timely rebranding of the syrup’s image. This narrative can be shared with our children and future generations, educating them about the legacy that deserves recognition. We should highlight the stories of the twelve Aunt Jemima ambassadors and the impact they made in society. I sincerely hope Quaker Oats takes the lead in commemorating that legacy for years to come.
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In summary, the Aunt Jemima brand’s legacy is intertwined with complex historical narratives about race and identity in America. As Quaker Oats embarks on a rebranding journey, it is crucial to acknowledge the contributions of the women behind the brand and to reshape the conversation around racial representation in America.
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